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Best of Hawaii's Big Island

bubbling and oozing in a mild-mannered way that lets you walk right up to the creeping flow for an
up-close encounter.

Going Underwater at Kealakekua Bay -- The islands have lots of extraordinary snorkel and dive
sites, but none is so easily accessible as mile-wide Kealakekua Bay, an uncrowded marine preserve
on the South Kona Coast. Here you can swim with dolphins, sea turtles, octopuses, and every
species of tropical fish that calls Hawaii's waters home.

Discovering Old Hawaii at Puuhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park -- Protected by
a huge rock wall, this sacred Honaunau site was once a refuge for ancient Hawaiian warriors.
Today you can walk the consecrated grounds and glimpse a former way of life in a partially
restored 16th-century village, complete with thatched huts, canoes, forbidding idols, and a temple
that holds the bones of 23 Hawaiian chiefs.

Stargazing from Mauna Kea -- A jacket, beach mat, and binoculars are all you need to see every
star and planet in this ultraclean atmosphere, where the visibility is so keen that 11 nations have set
up telescopes (two of them the biggest in the world) to probe deep space.

Watching for Whales -- Humpback whales pass through waters off the Kona Coast every
December through April. To spot them from shore, head down to the Natural Energy Laboratory
of Hawaii Authority, just south of Kona Airport, and keep your eyes peeled as you walk the
shoreline. To get here, follow Queen Kaahumanu Highway (Hwy. 19) toward the Keahole airport;
6 miles outside of town, look for the sign NATURAL ENERGY LAB and turn left. Just after the
road takes a sharp turn to the right, there's a small paved parking area with restrooms; a beach trail
is on the ocean side of the lot.

Savoring a Cup of Kona Coffee -- It's just one of those things you have to do while you're on
the Big Island. For a truly authentic cup of java, head upcountry to Holuakoa Cafe, on Mamalahoa
Highway (Hwy. 180) in Holualoa (tel. 808/322-2233), where owner Meggi Worbach buys green
coffee beans from local farmers, roasts and grinds them, and pours you the freshest cup of coffee
you've ever had.

Hanging Out in Waipio Valley -- Pack a picnic and head for this gorgeously lush valley that time
forgot. Delve deep into the jungle on foot, comb the black-sand beach, or just laze the day away
by a babbling stream, the tail end of a 1,000-foot waterfall.

Chasing Rainbows at Akaka Falls -- When the light is right, a perfect prism is formed and a
rainbow leaps out of this spectacular 442-foot waterfall, about 11 miles north of Hilo. Take time to
roam through the surrounding rainforest, where you're sure to have close encounters with exotic
birds, aromatic plumeria trees, and shocking red-torch ginger.

Gawking at the Day's Catch in Honokohau Harbor -- Every afternoon between 4 and 5pm,
local fishermen pull into the fuel dock to weigh in their big-game fish: 1,000-pound blue marlins,
150-pound yellowfin tunas, and plenty of scale-tipping mahimahi, ono (also known as wahoo), and
others. Sit in the bleachers and check out these magnificent creatures.

Hunting for Petroglyphs -- The majority of Hawaii's ancient rock carvings are found in the
233-acre Puako Petroglyph Archaeological District, near Mauna Lani Resort. The best time to go
looking is in the cool early morning or late afternoon. There are more than 3,000 petroglyphs in
this area alone -- see how many you can spot.

Shopping at the Hilo Farmers Market -- For a handful of dollars, you can buy a pound of
rambutan (a sweet Indonesian fruit), a bouquet of tropical orchids, and a couple of tasty foot-long
Hawaiian laulau (pork, chicken, or fish steamed in ti leaves). But be sure to arrive early -- the
market opens at sunrise -- because many of the 60 or so vendors quickly sell out.